American Way

Sushi Axiom on West 7th provides a brief respite for busy professionals by day and a comfortable atmosphere for couples by night. Its American take on Japanese favorites has been satiating Fort Worth palates for years.

While the fare served at Sushi Axiom is inspired by Japanese cuisine, there is little tradition found in its restaurant. From silverware present on the tables to fried rolls loaded with cream cheese, Sushi Axiom maintains its success by catering to a crowd that prefers the Americanized version of Japanese dishes. I’m not trying to proclaim the superiority of traditional sushi; I’m just pointing out that different cultures have different tastes.

During lunch on weekdays, which was when we visited, the crowd consists mostly of suit-clad men and women grabbing a quick power lunch with coworkers. The loud hum of table conversation upstages music being played in the dining area.

The handsome open-concept interior consists of oversized laurel green booths, dark brown tables and a rectangular bar with seating on each side. A small sushi bar is nestled along the back wall, and concrete support pillars are creatively covered with decorative tiles. A water wall, floor-to-ceiling windows and ambient colored lighting make Sushi Axiom a popular date-night destination with perfect people-watching opportunities.

Our server was pleasant and quick to get our drink orders. While I haven’t experienced this on previous visits, on this busy weekday lunch, the restaurant seemed understaffed. Our table was never cleared, with dishes totaling nine by the time we received our check.

For starters, we ordered the Spicy Tuna and Crab Nachos ($6), which came six to an order. Saltiness from the drizzled eel sauce paired well with the base of creamy crab. The pulpy, raw tuna did not have the most tantalizing texture, but the crunch of the chip and sesame seed topping assisted with the bite. Each nacho rested in spicy mayo and was topped with fish eggs.

At the suggestion of our server, we also tried the Jalapeño Crab Cream Cheese Panko Crusted appetizer ($6). Six not-too-spicy jalapeño peppers arrived fried in panko crumbs and filled with crabmeat. Encircling a mound of rice noodles, the soggy peppers were topped with spicy mayo sauce and a scattering of sesame seeds.

From the impressive signature roll selection, I decided on the Temptation Roll ($11.95). Eight pieces are filled with shrimp tempura, crab and cream cheese. It’s topped with more crab and Sushi Axiom’s heavenly 4-Season Sauce. I appreciate the size of the roll. Oftentimes rolls are made too large and make the one-bite experience awkward. Graded on presentation and balance of texture and flavor, this dish gets an A+.

My dining companion ordered the Sea Bass with Miso Sauce ($22.95). While the fish was beautifully prepared, it was drowning in a sweetness overload. The syrupy miso sauce overwhelmed the fish, and a tempura-fried sweet potato seemed like an odd pairing. As for the side veggies, quartered meaty mushrooms had an intense smoky flavor, and the tender-yet-still-firm asparagus and sweet onions were delicious.

For dessert we ordered the Tempura Ice Cream ($5.50), which was enough to feed four or five people. Vanilla ice cream features a tempura crust, lacking in crunch, and is topped with a drizzle of chocolate sauce.

All in all, Sushi Axiom and its five other locations provide a little taste of the Far East while keeping its menu firmly planted in the U.S. The eclectic, modern feel and vast array of non-raw options make it one of the hottest spots on West 7th.


Location: Sushi Axiom, 2600 West 7th St., Fort Worth 76107
For Info: 817.877.3331,
sushi-axiom.com
Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Mon.-Thu.; 11 a.m.-11 p.m., Fri.; noon-11 p.m., Sat.; noon-9 p.m., Sun.
Price Range: $$ - $$$
What We Liked: Sushi Axiom has a modern atmosphere with several non-raw options.
What We Didn’t: Portions were oversized, and preparation wasn’t always spot on.
Our Recommendation: The signature Temptation Roll is one of the best in town.