By: Scott Nishimura1
By: Courtney Dabney
On a busy Friday afternoon, my husband and I popped into Eddie V’s for an early dinner. We chose to eat in the lively V Lounge, where the happy hour crowd was already gathering. Martinis flowed freely as a distinguished clientele waited for the live jazz piano to begin.
Situated on a prime corner in Fort Worth’s Cultural District, attention to detail can be seen in the sophisticated design elements around the restaurant. Accents of Texas stone and stainless steel complement the warm cherry hardwood floors that run throughout. Candles illuminate white tablecloth-draped tables, and contemporary chandeliers and halogen pendants provide additional elegant lighting. Guests may watch their food being prepared in Eddie V’s exposition kitchen as well as view fresh shellfish options displayed on an ice wall just past the host stand.
Greeting us within a few seconds of being seated, our server was welcoming and patient when we took our time selecting our wine from the robust listing.
Our bottle of sauvignon blanc from the Marlborough Region arrived to the table and was placed in a chiller. It became apparent that it had been pulled from the shelf rather than from the cooler because our first glass was somewhat warm. Nothing a few ice cubes couldn’t remedy. When our server noticed that my wine glass was a little dusty, she quickly whisked it away and returned with a clean one.
When we saw the Hawaiian Yellowtail Sashimi ($16) starter on the menu, we were hooked. It arrived to the table promptly and had a clean presentation. Flawless fresh fish swam in a ponzu sauce (soy, lime juice, vinegar and fish flakes) and was topped with a single slice of red pepper, which provided a nice kick. Cilantro micro greens delicately rested on top of the pepper slices and added another element of freshness. While excellent and up to the standards of sashimi, the dish didn’t push any limits.
What was exceptional was the Fuji Apple Salad ($9). As your fork explores, shifting greens around the plate, you find hidden treasures galore. Creamy Maytag blue cheese, tart Fuji apples, caramelized walnuts, sweet baby beets, crunchy green beans and drunken Luxardo cherries were lightly dressed in a ginger-orange vinaigrette. It could have easily passed as a savory dessert.
For the main course, I opted for the Swordfish Steak ($33). The generous portion of swordfish was broiled and topped with chunky pieces of lump crabmeat, avocado, red onion, chopped red pepper, chives and a sprig of cilantro. Traditionally, you might experience some type of white wine butter sauce with this presentation, but refreshingly, a vinegar-based dressing kept the dish light.
While Eddie V’s is renowned for its seafood, my dining companion went with a turf alternative. Filet Medallions ($49) were served Oscar style with fresh crab, asparagus and hollandaise. While well-seasoned with fresh cracked pepper, the medallions were served medium, although requested medium rare, and were a little charred on the bottom. Asparagus spears were on point, still retaining some of their firmness; hearty crab chunks were moist; and the hollandaise was rich and creamy. This is not a meal for the faint of heart, literally.
Side dishes are served family style ($7 small, $10 large). Broccolini with Lemon and Garlic was delightful but maybe not the right choice for date night due to a strong garlic aftertaste. An order of the Au Gratin Potatoes came topped with a blanket of cheese. While there was no evidence left in the serving dish, this side could have been more appropriately named smashed potatoes rather than au gratin. A mushy texture indicated the potatoes had been slightly overcooked.
Scratch-made desserts can take up to 20 minutes to prepare, so those with a sweet tooth may want to plan ahead and order before finishing the main course. Our server recommended the Bananas Foster Butter Cake, but we went with the Hot Blackberry Cobbler ($9). This sweet ending to the meal was warm and gooey, allowing the Henry’s homemade Mexican vanilla ice cream to slightly melt atop the flaky, buttery crust. Fresh succulent blackberries elevated the syrupy filling, as did the mint garnish and a dusting of powdered sugar. This dish needs no improvement.
Eddie V’s is not for the budget conscious. It’s the place you go for decadent, four-course fine dining or to celebrate one of life’s special events. Overall, our experience was one that we will savor.
Location: Eddie V's, 3100 W. 7th St.
For Info: 817.336.8000, eddiev.com
Hours: 4 p.m.-11 p.m. Mon.-Thu., 4 p.m.-midnight Fri. & Sat., 4 p.m.-10 p.m. Sun.
Price Range: $$$-$$$$
What We Liked: Dishes focus on quality and freshness of ingredients with a simple presentation.
What We Didn’t: Minor tweaks such as making sure the wine was chilled and accurately preparing the steak would have made the meal ideal.
Our Recommendation: Eddie V’s is perfect for celebrating a special occasion. House-made desserts are well worth the wait.
By: Scott Nishimura1
By: Courtney Dabney