| photography by Alex Lepe |
Possessing serious “wow” factor, HG Sply Co. successfully radiates warmth with its industrial revolution meets L.A. see-and-be-seen ambiance. An impressive half tunnel covered in floor-to-ceiling red and white subway tile arches high above the bar. Taking full advantage of its viewpoint, walls of windows look out onto the river and the 5,000-square-foot patio that will draw swarms this spring.
Energetic wait staff buzzed around the dining room like a well-oiled machine. Our server was knowledgeable and attentive. We were well taken care of as waiters performed a systematic dance of refilling water glasses, refolding napkins when we left the table and bussing finished plates.
A trip to HG Sply Co. will urge you to hurry home and toss those canned goods and potato chips in the garbage. There is nothing on its primal menu that you couldn’t hunt or gather in nature. For those with finicky dietary needs, all dishes can be prepared gluten- and dairy-free.
Choosing a citrusy white wine to go with our food selections at lunch, we were disappointed when the server returned and said that they had actually run out (a pet peeve of mine). He did bring a consolation bottle in our same price range similar to our original selection. Crisis averted.
My dining companion and I shared the Old Bay Steamed PEI Mussels ($14) as an appetizer. Plump and juicy mussel meat was swiftly robbed from its shells bathing in Old Bay tomato broth, chorizo, celery and garlic. Crostinis acted as flavor mops, but two slices were simply not enough. I’ve never been served such a generous portion of mussels, even as an entrée. All in all, I counted 30 shells once we had finished. It’s the perfect appetizer for a group of four.
I set my sights on the Grilled TX Chicken Breast ($15) atop the Tex-Mex amalgamation of black and white quinoa, chile-braised black beans, salsa, red bell pepper, onion, guacamole, pineapple pico and a handful of tortilla chips. Slightly charred and well seasoned, the chicken was sliced and retained its moisture. Making sure to get a combination of all ingredients in every bite, this dish was fresh and filling without making you miserably stuffed and needing a nap.
Almost always opting for a chocolate sweet ending to my meal, I strayed off course and ordered the Strawberry Cheesecake ($10). Truly unique, the cheesecake was more savory than sweet. Served over a Texas honey-coconut crumble that provided the right amount of crunch and nuttiness, the swirled creamy cake was complemented by a side of coconut-macerated strawberries.
HG Sply Co. is exactly what Fort Worth needed and easily slides into my top five eateries in the city.
Location: HG Sply Co. 1621 River Run, Ste. 176
For Info: 682.730.6070
Hours: Sun. 10 a.m.-10 p.m., Mon.-Thu. 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri. 11 a.m.-midnight, Sat. 10 a.m.-midnight
Complimentary parking is available daily in the on-site, 800-car parking garage. Valet parking is available, Thu.-Sat., 5 p.m.-midnight.
Price Range: $$
What We Liked: Guilt-free eating in a trendy atmosphere.
What We Didn’t: There were a few mishaps when ordering the wine.
Our Recommendations: Sample one of the “Hunted” and “Gathered” bowls, and make sure to save room for dessert.