To visit the splendor of Western Canada is to stroll through an immense, rustic wilderness landscape accompanied by both opulence and adventure. But to experience all that a getaway can offer, ignore the big cities; spend a week where the wind through the trees sings you to sleep and the buzz of adventure greets you each morning. In the southwest corner of Banff National Park, the small town of Banff, Alberta, offers a wealth of adventure, luxury and dramatic natural beauty that will leave you breathless. From ski slopes to spas, this place has got it all.
Banff is primed to compete for North America's best downhill recreation with its dry powder snow and three world-class ski areas. Mt. Norquay, Lake Louise and Sunshine Village offer more than 8,000 acres of first-class skiing and snowboarding in the picturesque Canadian Rockies. Don't worry about choosing among the mountains though; a tri-area lift ticket gives access to unlimited runs on any of the three mountains.
If the steep and deep is not your style, Banff serves up a vast selection of cross-country ski trails. Locals also prefer the trails in and around Lake Louise - 35 miles north of Banff in the middle of the national park. Book a trip with Banff Nordic Ski School and Vacations (banffnordic.com) for lessons, lodging at Deer Lodge and up-close access to nearby backcountry trailheads.
In the winter, Banff's best summer hiking trails lie dormant beneath a thick blanket of snow, but that doesn't mean you can't still pursue the quiet beauty of these frozen pathways. Strap on a pair of snowshoes and access the backcountry trails for unforgettable vistas and a chance encounter with some local mountain wildlife. Hire a guide from one of the area's outfitters, and leave the orienteering to a professional while you take in the surroundings. Be sure to ask your guide service about ice walking tours as well.
The new Snowdays Skating Rink in downtown Banff is perfect for an afternoon of ice-skating. There's no hockey allowed at Snowdays, so bring the whole family for an unhurried evening after a busy day on the slopes. Lake Louise offers an outdoor rink complete with a nearby bonfire area. Or practice your turns on the natural ice off Main Street; try Forty-Mile Creek to Vermilion Lakes, Johnson Lake, Two Jack Lake and Lake Minnewanka when conditions permit. And while you're hunting for an icy slab, keep an eye out for a snowy slope. The terrain in and around the town of Banff is covered in prime sledding hills.
When you're finished with the local hills, kick your sledding experience into high gear. A number of dog sledding companies offer tours through Banff National Park. Whether you want to bundle up and enjoy the ride in comfort or learn first-hand the skills of a professional musher, there's a tour guide to meet your needs. Howling Dog Tours, out of Canmore (howlingdogtours.com), is a racing kennel; tour options range from the comfortably romantic to the boldly adventurous.
Enjoy the vintage side of Banff from the seat of a horse-drawn sleigh ride. A typical ride lasts 45 minutes and tours the meadows and frozen rivers on the outskirts of town. A winter activity pass from Banff Adventures Unlimited (banffadventures.com) includes a sleigh ride, a gondola pass and a Banff Hot Springs pass to boot. Or kick it up a notch and purchase the sleigh and fly package for a one-hour sleigh ride accompanied by a half-hour helicopter flight high above the snowy peaks. Romantic packages are also available and include chocolate, liqueurs and an authentic buffalo robe to keep you and your honey warm.
The winter sportsman visiting Banff will need to make room for a day or two of ice fishing in the surrounding wilderness. Whatever your length of stay, a number of well-equipped outfitters around Banff offer ice-fishing packages of all styles. One of the most well-established outfitters, Banff Fishing Unlimited (banff-fishing.com), offers heated huts, cooking the catch on site, and more than 25 years of guiding experience.
If Banff's laid-back temperament gives you the impression that this Canadian getaway is nothing but leisure and luxury, then thrill-seekers listen up. Banff is home to some of the world's best heli-skiing and extreme snowmobiling. Check rk heliski (rkheliski.com), which offers daily group and private big mountain powder skiing for all skill levels. Visit Toby Creek Adventures (tobycreekadventures.com) for half or full-day snowmobiling adventures in addition to cookouts; consider the powder extreme package for some high performance powder playtime.
Banff Adventures Unlimited will equip thrill-seekers of all skill levels for a half or full-day ice climbing adventure in Banff, Canmore or Lake Louise. Afraid of heights? No problem. Head out into the national park for some ice diving (that's right, ice diving) in the frigid waters of Lake Minnewanka.
But winters in Banff are not always ice-cold, thanks to an oddity of Mother Nature. For the most part, the winter months around Banff bring the kind of cold weather and heavy snowfall one would expect from a Canadian winter. An average daily temperature around 6 degrees Fahrenheit follows the first major snowfall in November, but the occasional cold snap drops the mercury well below zero at least a couple times a year. However, these cold snaps are offset by warm winds called Chinooksthat blow through, delivering spring-like conditions to this frostbitten landscape. The resulting rise in temperature can sometimes last days or even weeks, so consult with Mother Nature before making reservations.
When it comes to quality service and luxurious lodging in Banff, nothing beats the iconic Fairmont Banff Springs Resort (fairmont.com/banff-springs). Chances are pretty good that you have seen this grand castle-like hotel before in an advertisement or on the front side of a postcard. Located in the heart of the national park's picturesque wilderness, this towering structure offers unobstructed views of matchless and mostly untouched beauty. The resort includes 12 restaurants and lounges, two full-sized golf courses, world-class spas, shopping and loads of kid-friendly activities. Ask about the ski packages when you book your winter getaway.
For something a little more in line with the local mountain experience, try Baker Creek Mountain Resort (bakercreek.com). Baker Creek offers one- and two-bedroom chalets as well as a variety of suites in the main lodge. In downtown Banff, try Banff Beaver Cabins (banffbandbcabins.com), some of the area's oldest visitor cabins and an Alberta Heritage Site. And for a private getaway for two, stake your claim at the cozy Banff Log Cabin Guesthouse (banfflogcabin.ca).
For spectacular lodging paired with one of Banff's preeminent restaurants, visit Buffalo Mountain Lodge (crmr.com/buffalo). The lodge contains 108 rooms with stone wood-burning fireplaces, private bathrooms and balconies. The Sleeping Buffalo Restaurant and Lounge serves up wild game alongside fresh native berries and wild fruits served in conjunction with one of the most exceptional wine lists in town.
For unforgettable dining, stop into The Bison Restaurant and Terrace (thebison.ca). Sip on an icy bottle of local Canadian beer as you gaze out over spectacular mountain views and consider the choice of locally inspired fare on the menu. While in downtown Banff, try The Maple Leaf Grille and Lounge (banffmapleleaf.com) where you can enjoy Canadian beef, bison and elk in a rustic lodge setting. And for another perfect mixture of Canadian elegance and local cuisine, reserve a table at The Evergreen Restaurant (theevergreen.ca).
No matter where you stay, where you eat or what adventures you choose, this is Western Canada at its very best. Whether you fly into Calgary and catch a ride over or road trip north through the Rocky Mountains, make Banff, Alberta, your next winter getaway. You won't regret it.
