Biscuits have long been a part of Fort Worth’s culinary landscape, but 2018 is the year in which the biscuit will rise to epic proportions, thanks to the arrival of Fixe, as well as a handful of other forthcoming, biscuit-forward restaurants: Fixture chef Ben Merritt’s Ben’s Triple B: Biscuits, Burgers and Brews on the east side; Grady Spears’ chicken and biscuits stall Graze at the upcoming Crockett Street Food Hall; and Stacks Biscuit House in Roanoke.
While we wait for these new biscuit spots to drop, let us count the ways in which Fort Worth’s biscuit scene already delivers the (baked) goods, courtesy of these local biscuits and biscuit dishes.
Cane Rosso You’ll need a knife and fork, or politician-size mouth, to topple Cane Rosso’s brunch-only chicken biscuit sandwich, stuffed with fried chicken tenders, layers of hot soppressata and bacon marmalade jam, all drizzled in habanero maple syrup and squeezed between a house-made bacon marmalade biscuit.
Hot Box Biscuit Club The pop-up dinners from Fort Worth chefs du jour Matthew Mobley and Sarah Hooton always feature their namesake items, baked in various incarnations, from cheddar and hatch chile (ohmagosh) to scallion (whoa) to sweet potato (died, went to biscuit heaven). Homemade spreads accompany, such as apple butter and Paloma citrus jelly.
Jazz Café Nick Kithas’ charmingly funky lunch and weekend breakfast spot serves some of the best biscuits in the city. They’re different than most, in that they’re a little sweet and sport a crunchy, mountainous exterior; no two are ever the same.
Montgomery Street Café Fort Worth’s highways and back roads are lined with mom and pop cafes with terrific biscuits, from Paris Coffee Shop to West Side Café. But most longtime Fort Worthians pledge their allegiance to the pillowy, buttermilk beauties found at this 30-year-old café. You’ll want a side of peppered gravy, too, for dunking.
Old Neighborhood Grill The fluffy biscuits at this southside home-cooking institution may look innocuous enough, but one bite in and you’ll be hooked. Their secret ingredient: Miller Lite beer.
Trio New American Cuisine The hike to this forward-thinking café in Colleyville is worth it for three very good reasons: Duck. Fat. Biscuits. Wielding a twinge of tang, they’re best consumed as part of Trio’s brunch-only New Orleans Benedict, in which they’re smothered in tasso ham, popcorn shrimp and housemade hollandaise.
by Malcolm Mayhew